WEB SITE JOURNAL FOR THE GREAT OHIO RIVER PADDLE 2004

Prologue

The 2nd Great Ohio River Paddle actually began June 19th as paddlers arrived from New York, New Jersey, Ohio, and Kentucky to get a good night sleep and meet their fellow paddlers. The paddlers ranged in age and experience from 38 to 78, and 4 to 15 years, respectively. The types of paddling experience ran the gambit from small rivers and streams, to big rivers, lakes, and oceans. The boats were all kayaks made of different materials. Some were plastic. Some were glass. And others were constructed of wood – handmade by their owners! We even had a tandem boat – a double paddled by Richard and Jason. But more about that later. This year's GORP covered 241 miles and 14 days, from Portsmouth, OH to Louisville, KY.

The following Daily Journal includes excerpts from paddlers' daily journal entries.

Sunday, June 20 - Portsmouth, OH to Vanceburg, KY

The second Great Ohio River Paddle began on a beautiful Ohio River morning (clear skies, 55 degrees). Everyone who had stayed the night before at the nearby Ramada Inn was present and accounted for. From the onset, camaraderie among the paddlers was apparent as they helped each other carry the boats to the put-in. The paddlers stocked up and supplemented their own provisions with Red Bull, Clif Bars, apples, and ‘more bananas that you could point a stick at.'— Richard K. The last paddler was on the river by 10am. After driving yesterday (in some cases 8hrs) everyone was glad to be in their boats. Not having to drive a car for 2 weeks was also going to be a treat!

They made good time even though they took their time getting used to the rhythm of the river. Richard K., “The weather was awesome; a mild day in the 70's with a slight breeze. The early pace was casual. With a 6 knot current we … made good progress.” An exploration and lunch stop in Kitty Kinnick Creek was a paddling highlight of the day. Arrival at Vanceburg was under a cloudless sky with temperatures in the mid 70's. The Vanceburg Volunteer Fire Department, under the leadership of “Bubbles,” treated the group and community to a delicious barbeque dinner. Patty Kenard, from the Mayor's office, then led some of the paddlers on a walking tour of Vanceburg, while others remained at the campsite in the Veterans Memorial Park to watch a Tom's of Maine video about US rivers. Jim H. commented, “Good food at dinner time, and the next best – hot showers!” Richard K., “…great BBQ dinner of burgers, hot dogs, chicken & fixings…shower facilities that were just great.” Jason, “…awesome barbecue [and] shower…We slept at the Memorial Park which had the greatest sunset and sunrise.”

Monday, June 21 - Vanceburg, KY to Manchester, OH

We awakened to a picturesque morning of a cloud-shrouded river. The sun played peak-a-boo as we had a morning breakfast of coffee, tea, OJ, and homemade muffins (thanks, Patty!). Then it was time to shove off.

Scott S. “…Day started out misty and cool, but cleared up. The mist on the river made one think of the legend of sea monsters. It was a day for wildlife, with a beaver [sighted] early in the morning and a great blue heron and a bald eagle later in the day. Hank, Chuck, and I paddled a long way up a stream past a nut tree orchard. Meanwhile, the others found an island with a sand beach and a handy ledge for sitting. It made a perfect spot for lunch. Richard and Jason made their usual pot of coffee.

“A westerly picked up in our faces, but we still were really early for the take out. When the take out was spotted, the guys in the tandem – thinking [perhaps] of beer waiting – and Jim W. touched off a stampede for the last couple hundred yards. The tandem won easily.”

A total of three bald eagles were seen flying today (possibly two of whom were seen yesterday). Also observed were lots of turkey vultures, a kingfisher, an unidentified bird with white wingtips, and a few great blue herons. (During the two weeks, great blue herons were often noticed along the shorelines.)

After landing at the 2pm at the Island Creek Boat Ramp in Manchester, OH (right across from Manchester Island – the last island in the chain of the Ohio River Islands National Wildlife Refuge), tents were pitched and Frisbees flew. A delicious baked chicken sandwich dinner was delivered by Lewis Mountain Herbs and was enjoyed on the riverside. Moyers Vineyards provided complimentary Morlet and Vidal Blanc – Thanks!

Tuesday, June 22 - Manchester, OH to Maysville, KY to Ripley, OH

No visit to Manchester would be complete without breakfast from Ma Brown's. Bagels, muffins, coffee, scrambled eggs, bacon, sausage burgers, milk, OJ, and mixed fruit salad. Paddlers were well ballasted for the day's trip.

The concrete boat ramp made for an easy put-in by 8:15. Paddling was easy as the current and lack of headwind enabled good time to be made.

For lunch, Maysville Mayor David Cartwell hosted us in council chambers. It was an enjoyable experience as the mayor shared the rich history of Maysville and he and the paddlers discussed the future of Maysville and the river.

After shoving off, just past the Maysville bridge, the group began to split in two as the paddlers neared Ripley. A cloudburst further separated the two groups. One group got heavy rain. The other got a sprinkle!

Arriving at Ripley they were greeted by rows of purple martin houses guarding the campsite. After showering, we all headed over to CoHearts Restaurant where we were feted to a gourmet meal dinner as a 14 year-old performing arts student, in period garb, recounted to us the story of Eilza Harris crossing the Ohio River.

Wednesday, June 23 - Ripley, OH to Chilo, OH

The day started a little later after a delicious breakfast at Snapper's Saloon. In the water by 9:30am, the paddlers made good time on another beautiful sunny day. Along the way the group pulled ashore at a park where a senior citizen group was visiting. The paddlers chatted and put many smiles on the faces of their surprised hosts, many of whom had never seen a kayak.

The team landed at the Chilo boat ramp and camped at the Lockhouse #34 County Park and Preserve. There were yurts at the park, however, the group elected to camp outside under the stars (in their tents). The yurts are a modern version of what Genghis Khan and his wandering Mongolian tribes used 800 years ago. They are a round tent-cabin hybrid constructed with lattice and canvas. Each yurt has a solid door entry, wood floor, window flaps, skylight dome, and a wood-burning stove. Chuck D. wanted to share our experience with the outside world, but found that cell phone communication was challenging.

After pizza and salad provided by Chilo Dairy Bar, County Park District Director Chris Clingman gave a history tour of the old lockhouse and lock system. The evening was capped by: dessert pastries delivered by Jill Newton (and her son) who had chaperoned the senior citizens earlier during the day; a reading by paddler Jason McGuinnis; and, guitar and vocal performance by paddler Lee Reiser.

Thursday, June 24 - Chilo, OH to New Richmond, OH

It was our first lock and dam day, with Meldahl Lock and Dam awaiting the paddlers arrival. After communicating with the lockmaster, and announcing our presence and awaiting the all clear signal, the paddlers (accompanied by Craig Ruttle, photographer with the Cincinnati Enquirer) entered the 1600 foot-long lock and held on to the floating mooring bits. In only 12 minutes, the lock chamber emptied 30 million gallons of water. The lockmaster then blew the horn and the massive lock gates opened, leaving the kayakers free to paddle on. What a curious sight they were, all by themselves in that huge lock chamber.

Instead of using the New Richmond boat ramp, the team took out upstream at a gently sloped riverside beach. For dinner, the paddlers enjoyed the view and meal at Skipper's River Café. For the evening's activity, the local Boy's and Girl's Club put on a cute America themed musical revue that was enjoyed by all.

Friday, June 25 - New Richmond, OH to Newport, KY

A memorable gourmet breakfast at a nearby Bed & Breakfast started our day. Under overcast skies, the group set off for a brief paddle over to Kentucky. There they got a walking tour of Thomas More College's Biological Field Station, given by Professor John Hageman. As the tour drew to a close the paddlers were itching to get back in their boats and head on toward Cincinnati.

The number and density of bridges increased as they neared Cincinnati. Under the Big Mac bridge (so-named because of its yellowish color, the Purple People Bridge -- pedestrian only, and the Roeblings Suspension Bridge -- built by Brooklyn Bridge architect before that famous New York bridge.)

It was a muddy landing at James Taylor Park in Newport. It made for an entertaining time for the paddlers as they watched Rich C. get stuck then take seat as he went up to mid-calf in mud. After showers at the nearby Travelodge and a visit to the Newport Aquarium for Hank, the group split up for dinner with half going to the Bamboo Club and the other to the Mike Fink. At the Mike Fink, Hank, Chuck N., Scott, and Jim H. were joined by local paddling and river preservationist legend Mike Fremont. After dinner some paddlers returned to our campground while others sampled the nightlife at nearby Newport on the Levee and the Irish Festival.

Saturday, June 26 - Newport, KY to Sayler Park, OH

Everybody join the party! Day and weekend paddlers joined the fray. It was an interesting and friendly mix of people we now had paddling down the river. The group split into smaller pods, then re-grouped for lunch at Anderson Ferry. Others spied a United Dairy Farmers restaurant and walked up the riverbank to grab a bite to eat.

Only one barge tow passed the group and powerboat traffic was minimal. Upon landing in Fernbank Park, in Sayler Park, the group was greeted by Penny Borgman, a naturalist with Hamilton County Park District. She was all decked out in period dress and had with her a display and information about life on the river in the 19 th century. It was very interesting; especially the little flatboat model.

Showers at the Community Center, were followed by a nice Italian dinner at Cipriani's. The weekend paddlers and Shauna joining the through-paddlers for the overnight was a nice change from the usual evening faces. Some of Jim H.'s family also happened by to say hello to grandpa! What a glorious sunset.

Sunday, June 27 - Sayler Park, OH to Rising Sun, IN

One week to go and it started like the first day, with a beautiful morning. The sleepy paddlers were greeted with a nice Wild Oats breakfast. Shauna did the obligatory coffee run – It seems some paddlers needed coffee every morning to get going, just like a car needs gas in the tank!

With a bon voyage, the paddlers embarked on their 22-mile journey. They made good time and had lunch at the mouth of the Great Miami River. Along the way they stopped for a rest at an island and shared conversation with the island's owner. Resuming their sojourn they passed Whitewater River and Tanner's Creek. They then passed the Argosy Casino in Lawrenceburg, a riverbank park in Aurora, and as they approached Rising Sun they saw the Grand Victoria Casino. Some of the weekend paddlers had never done that distance before (22 mi.), but they had little trouble with the river. The owners of Riverview Cottages were kind enough to allow the paddlers to use their showers, before catching a tram to the casino for dinner. I don't believe any fortunes were made or lost at the casino!

Monday, June 28 – Rising Sun, IN to Big Bone, KY

Time to leave “[T]he Home of Hoosier Boy.” – It's the name of a local powerboat racer. Still hungry after a little breakfast at a local Rising Sun coffee shop, the group paddled about one mile downriver and stopped at the Hidden Valley Marina Restaurant for some great coffee, sausage, and eggs. With this late breakfast, the paddlers made a decision to skip a stop for lunch and instead push on.

As the river and paddlers flowed by, belted kingfishers and great blue herons (these birds were a common site almost every day) paid them little heed, although the paddlers enjoyed admiring their plumage and effortless flight.

Big Bone Marina & Campground was a pleasant off-river stop. The quiet solitude of Big Bone Creek was a nice change from the enormity of the Ohio River. Owners Joyce and Joe Engleman welcomed the group with a delicious home cooked lasagna dinner, with a wonderful fresh green salad. Camping in marina also presented the rare opportunity for a post dinner paddling exploration of Big Bone Creek by Rich C., Jim W., Joe Engleman, and Richard K. The paddling was very relaxing as we weaved our way around and under tree branches. It was the first creek exploration for Rich C. on this trip (the through paddlers went on many creek explorations during the trip). Such is the life of the sag wagon driver!

Tuesday, June 29 – Big Bone, KY to Warsaw, KY

The Englemans outdid themselves again with a wonderful breakfast meal. Lee had a little tumble and had to sit out the rest of the trip, but Rich C. appreciated the having someone riding gunshot in the van.

The group resumed the adventure and stopped to visit with a local landowner who enjoyed showing off his cannon! But that was a mere foreshadowing of the evening activities to come.

Upon arrival at the Warsaw Public Landing, a small crowd was there to greet the paddlers, including ORF board member Bernie Steinkamp. Warsaw had organized a festival around the visit of the GORP paddlers! Ed Council of Canoe Kentucky brought his kayaks and 2 war canoes. Local kids were treated to the use of the kayaks and the GORP paddlers loved paddling the river in the war canoes.

Dinner was a barbeque feast complete with roasted corn. While the paddlers ate, Barbara, a painter and sketch artist from Rising Sun, captured the scene with a painting of the campsite strewn with tents and kayaks. Lee and a local gospel group followed completed the evening with a rousing songfest for the assembled masses.

Wednesday, June 30 – Warsaw, KY to Madison, IN

Lora Rassman catered the morning breakfast with scrambled eggs, bacon, and coffee, supplementing the fresh fruit, gorp, Clif bars, and beverages supplied daily by Ohio River Foundation. The group decided it was time to start shifting to earlier departures to avoid the afternoon sun. Everyone also agreed that the morning was a prettier time to be on the river, with the morning fog, the light boat traffic, etc. So, by 7:40am the last paddler was cast out into the river (in his boat, of course).

The fog burned off as the paddlers neared Markland Lock and Dam. The area was not busy, so the group did not need to wait for any barges to clear out of the lock. They pulled right in and down they went. Twenty minutes later they were out the other side and on their way.

Like homing pigeons the group found another nice spot to stop for lunch. This time it was a pleasant riverside restaurant. The casual atmosphere contrasted with the activity waiting at the next stop.

Pulling into Madison the shoreline was abuzz as the town was in the midst of preparations for their annual powerboat regatta. Fortunately, the town's hospitality could not have been better as the paddlers were allowed to camp under the festival tents and use the nearby pool and showers. The chicken pasta salad dinner was a big hit. Professor Chris Lorentz from Thomas More College was the evening headliner as he led a discussion and slide presentation about Ohio River history and ecology.

Thursday, July 1 – Madison, IN to Westport, KY

Another early day dawned as a quick breakfast and on the river by 7:40am had all the paddlers smiling. A lunch break on a beach across the river from one of the power plants dotting the 981 Ohio River shoreline, had the paddlers pondering different questions about river uses and the future of the Ohio.

The campsite at Westport was a nice little park where relaxing was easy. Just up the road, the locally favorite Westport General Store and Restaurant opened its doors and treated the group to a fabulous pasta dinner (although 3 guys chose to order steak off the menu).

Friday, July 2 – Westport, KY to Louisville, KY

After settling into their boats, the last paddler shoved off at 7:50 joining the group in a cross-river paddle over to the Indiana side. The day passed quickly as the fog enshrouded river gave way to beautiful skies. The last sand beach encounter of the trip took place at 12-Mile Island, where the group landed for lunch. A nest of bank swallows took note of the presence of these strange life jacketed “birds”.

After coasting into Cox Park in Louisville at 1:30, paddlers took turns going to Turner Complex for a swim and shower. Scott Newman, of Quest Outdoors, proved invaluable in assisting with some of the on-site logistics. The Old Spaghetti Factory provided the last supper of penne and mixed vegetables. The evening culminated with some final songs from Lee and reflective conversations about the past 2 weeks and 235 miles.

Saturday, July 3 – Louisville, KY to New Albany, IN

One last day to break camp. It was apparent that this would be a different day than the past 13.

About 30 day-paddlers, in canoes, kayaks, and squirt-boats, joined the group. The excitement was palpable as the group was eager to venture onto the river and through the McAlpine Lock – one of the busiest in the country. A news crew from Channel 11 WHAS happened to be on-site and made GORP a feature part of their morning report (thanks to Reed Yadon!).

The timing and navigation through the lock canal and around barge tows proved challenging. Bernie Steinkamp and his father (a member of the local power squadron) were on hand to provide powerboat protection, if needed (it wasn't). But with patience and communication with the lockmaster the group finally made it into the lock chamber.

What a sight they were, as they herded into the lock. There was plenty of room! Down the water went…slowwwly. When the lock gates opened, out streamed the paddlers. A final sprint to New Albany was all that remained of this fantastic voyage. There Bernie and the limo waited to return paddlers and equipment back to Portsmouth, 241 upstream.

Epilogue

The two weeks flew by. The challenges were few, both from a paddling and logistic standpoint. The weather was perfect, although a few paddlers would have liked a little more rain sprinkled amongst the sunny days.

The paddlers all agreed that it had been an excellent experience. Many of the day paddlers are eager to participate again next year, and some were making plans to join the paddle for the entire length.

Said Rich Cogen, Executive Director of Ohio River Foundation and GORP Director, “This has been a tremendous event. Visiting all of these cities has really provided a first hand view to the paddlers and the support staff of the wonderful diversity along the Ohio River. We couldn't have asked for a better welcome – everywhere we went people were so supportive of this event.

“I would like to congratulate the paddlers on completing a fantastic voyage. I know they had a memorable experience, as did I! I am proud to have met them and to have been able to support them on this trip.

“I want to thank all the ORF volunteers who worked so hard to put together the myriad of details that go into producing an event like this: Heidi Bartlett, Sasha Appatova, Shauna O'Patry Hughes, Bernie Steinkamp, Judi Cogen, and Jan Warner. Also, thank you to this year's GORP guides for a safe and enjoyable adventure: Chuck Donaldson, Lee Reiser, Hank Berger.

We had tremendous support in all the host cities. Thank you to all the people associated with making our visit to their town an enjoyable and memorable one. Without all their work, this event is not possible.”

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Ohio River Foundation is now in the planning stages for the Great Ohio River Paddle 2005. If you are interested in participating as a paddler, sponsor or support staff volunteer, please email gorp@ohioriverfdn.org or call (513) 460-3365.

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